Thankfully a trip to Khiva no longer involves lengthy and arduous camel journeys through treacherous deserts as in the days of old. It is even possible to fly from other countries directly to Urgench's international airport, bypassing a needless stay in Tashkent. However internal transport to, from and around Khiva can still be a complicated procedure and the following chapter provides useful information and advice.

Travel from Tashkent or Bukhara to Khiva and back

'Urgench international airport'

By Air:
By far the easiest and most comfortable way to travel is by plane. Air tickets can be brought in Tashkent at the Uzbek Air office opposite Hotel Rossiya and are payable in US dollars or Uzbek so’om. At the time of writing, a one-way ticket is $75. If tickets are unavailable for the day you wish to fly, there are sometimes last minute tickets available at the airport itself. Planes leave from the domestic terminal to the left of the international terminal and arrive at Urgench airport. The flight takes roughly an hour and a half.

'Urgench domestic airport'

If you wish to buy tickets from Urgench to Tashkent, the ticket office is located next to the Urgench post office (pochta) which is within walking distance from the bazaar. During April-May and Sept-Oct there are lots of tourist groups and places often get booked up in advance. It is best to buy either an open return ticket in Tashkent or buy your ticket to Tashkent as soon as you arrive in Khorezm. There is also an Uzbek Air office tucked in one of the right hand side Madrassah cells of the Mohammed Amin Khan Madrassah. It should be possible for you to buy tickets there, however, budget plenty of time as the elderly woman who works there is not to be rushed and works at a snail’s pace.

The Uzbek system of air transport is still very centralised and unfortunately there are no connecting flights to Samarkand and Bukhara from Urgench.

By Rail:
Train is definitely the most comfortable overland option but it's also the longest, taking 18 to 20 hours to Tort Kul and a further hour by Taxi to Urgench. There are different classes of ticket available with a two person, air-conditioned compartment being the most expensive and usually the most unobtainable. This is followed by the four person croupier compartments with comfortable bunk beds and lockable doors. A cheaper alternative is a bunk in an open carriage.

'Urgench train station'

Whilst Tashkent trains also arrive and depart from Urgench, these trains take the train route through Turkmenistan and foreigners who board them run the risk of Turkmen Officials expecting exorbitant bribes or ‘fines’ for not having Turkmen visas, despite these being unnecessary. Tourists who do have Turkmen visas are also harassed and expected to pay fines. Some tourists have even been thrown off the train in Turkmenistan without a Turkmen visa and have had to secretly r-cross into Uzbekistan by swimming across border canals etc.

The only real train option from Tashkent to Khorezm and back is to take the train to Tort Kul. This leaves from Tashkent twice a week on Tuesdays and Saturdays at 5:20pm. It travels west to Navoi and then turns north through Uch Kuduk (‘three wells’) and finally at Tort Kul at around 2pm the following day. Shared Taxis are available to Urgench and from there to Khiva.

Take enough food and drink for yourself and your fellow compartment passengers who will also share theirs with you. Toilet paper and tea bags come in handy while tea-pots, cups, towels and bedding are provided.In general the trains here are far safer than in many parts of the former Soviet Union and other passengers are usually very friendly. There is, of course, always the risk of theft and valuables are best stowed in the trunk under the bottom bunks and then slept on. If you are a female traveler and feel uncomfortable being in a coupier with men, then speak to the wagon official who will ensure that you are moved to a coupier with women.

Tickets can be purchased in Urgench at the railway station (vauxall) using local currency. In Tashkent tickets are available from the shamoli vauxall (northern station) and are best booked in advance.

By Bus:
Travelling to or from Tashkent by bus takes around eighteen plus hours, depending on the state of the bus. This can be a long and tiring journey, particularly in summer, but it can also be a cheap and entertaining cross-cultural experience. Expect to have your passport passed up and down the entire bus and to receive enthusiastic lessons in the art of sunflower seed consumption. After all, it's not every day that locals see a real, live tourist on their bus.

Bring enough food and water to share with others although the bus does stop for at least one meal break in the desert. Don't be afraid to use your foreigner status to maximum advantage and ask for toilet stops if you need them (men on one side of the bus, women on the other) or a quick desert stop for photos. Buses leave from Khiva or Urgench, but Urgench is usually a better option as these buses fill up faster. There is no timetable and buses leave when they are full. Buses from Khiva leave from the outer city wall gate near the bazaar. Buses from Urgench leave from the Auto-Vauxall which is next to the Vauxall (train station).

Buses to Tashkent go past Bukhara and can drop you off there, although the price to Tashkent and Bukhara is the same. Travelling from Urgench to Bukhara by bus usually takes eight to ten hours so it's best to get an earlier bus to avoid arriving too late in Bukhara. Buses from Bukhara to Urgench are irregular and vans, cars or rail are the best options. In Tashkent, buses leave from the Sobir Rahimov bus station or from the Hippodrome.

'Luxury vans to Tashkent'

By Van:
Smart new Japanese vans also leave from the Hippodrome in Tashkent going to Urgench. These have no timetable and leave when they're full, usually between 4-6pm. Each van seats between ten and fifteen people and normally takes fourteen hours to get to Urgench. With both vans and buses, there is no need to bargain or discuss prices. Just get in and pay the same price as other passengers. The vans from Urgench to Tashkent leave from near the Sharq Magazine. One usually leaves mid-morning and others in the evening. At the time of writing, a seat costs around $10. There is usually a meal stop but bring additional water and snacks.Vans from Urgench to Tashkent also pass by Bukhara and are a relatively quick and inexpensive means of travel there. Travel from Bukhara to Khiva is a little more problematic although there are battered old vans and cars that leave from the Caravan bazaar on the outskirts of Bukhara.

'A Nexia'

'A Tico'

By Taxi:
Travelling between Tashkent and Urgench by taxi is expensive but possible and at the time of writing costs $15 for a seat, based on four people sharing.

Taxis between Bukhara and Khiva are more popular, particularly as other public transport options between these two cities are few. They can be arranged through hotels or B&Bs but these may prove expensive. A cheaper option is to talk with taxi drivers at the Caravan bazaar in Bukhara or the Bakcha Darvasa in Khiva. These drivers ply the route regularly and as a result you may get a better price. At the Caravan bazaar look out for number-plates with 22 on them which is the Khorezm regional code. These drivers will be making a return journey home and are therefore often willing to bring the price down. Similarly in Khiva look out for taxis with the 20 code, which are from Bukhara.

'A Damas'

Taxis vary in price according to the driver, how wealthy you look, how hard you bargain and the car itself. Uzbekistan prides itself on its car manufacture and since independence four new cars have been produced in country. These are all made by Daewoo and include the Tico, a small car that needs very little petrol, the Nexia, a luxury car, air-conditioned and usually more expensive, the Matiz, a medium sized car and the Damas, a small van. All these cars are used as taxis as are the traditional Ladas of Soviet days. Foreign women traveling by themselves are not hassled by taxi drivers in the same way as in many other countries. However it is important not to give wrong signals. If you are taking a taxi by yourself, you should not sit in the front next to the driver as this is considered inappropriate in Uzbek culture where even married women rarely sit in the front with their husband.

Hitchhiking:
The concept of hailing passing transport from the roadside is very common in Uzbekistan and it's quite normal for people who have space in their car or van to pick up additional passengers. However, this is not a service provided free of charge so expect to pay. Lone women are not advised to hitchhike.

Getting Around Khorezm

'A marshroot van'

Most tourists arriving in Urgench wish to get to Khiva as soon as possible. There are plenty of taxi drivers waiting at Urgench airport but for those who object to inflated taxi fares ask the taxi driver to take you to the Yulduz supermarket, next to the Urgench bazaar. From here Ticos regularly travel to the old city in Khiva. These are small shared taxis with four people to a car. The price is usually written above the dashboard and is fixed. If not, then pay the same as the local passengers. A taxi or shared Tico takes just over half an hour to make the journey from Urgench to Khiva.

'The Tico stop at the Bakcha Darvasa'

'The Khiva -Urgench trolley bus'

Large vans also leave from the Urgench bazaar going to Khiva's Bakcha Darvasa and are a little cheaper than the shared Ticos.There is also the trolley bus, which travels all the way from the airport to Khiva's old town. This takes longer but is a nice introduction to Khorezm.

For additional travel to sites of interest outside Khiva, taxis are not too expensive and are usually the best option. If you plan a day trip and are expecting your taxi driver to wait for you and then bring you back, then make sure this is explained before you leave.